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Diaz, IsabelAuthor

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October 7, 2024
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A novel professional-use synergistic peel technology to reduce visible hyperpigmentation on face: Clinical evidence and mechanistic understanding by computational biology and optical biopsy

Publicated to: EXPERIMENTAL DERMATOLOGY. 33 (4): e15069- - 2024-04-01 33(4), DOI: 10.1111/exd.15069

Authors:

Bhardwaj, Vinay; Handler, Marc Zachary; Mao, Junhong; Azadegan, Chloe; Panda, Pritam K; Breunig, Hans Georg; Wenskus, Isabell; Diaz, Isabel; Konig, Karsten
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Affiliations

Colgate Palmol Co, Dept Global Personal Care & Skin Hlth R&D, Piscataway, NJ 08854 USA - Author
Colgate Palmol Co, Dermal Clin Res, Piscataway, NJ USA - Author
Drexel Univ, Coll Med, Philadelphia, PA USA - Author
JenLab GmbH, Berlin, Germany - Author
Nerdalyt, Uppsala, Sweden - Author
Saarland Univ, Dept Biophoton & Laser Technol, Saarbrucken, Germany - Author
Uppsala Univ, Dept Phys & Astron, Uppsala, Sweden - Author
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Abstract

Topicals and chemical peels are the standard of care for management of facial hyperpigmentation. However, traditional therapies have come under recent scrutiny, such as topical hydroquinone (HQ) has some regulatory restrictions, and high concentration trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peel pose a risk in patients with skin of colour. The objective of our research was to identify, investigate and elucidate the mechanism of action of a novel TCA- and HQ-free professional-use chemical peel to manage common types of facial hyperpigmentation. Using computational modelling and in vitro assays on tyrosinase, we identified proprietary multi-acid synergistic technology (MAST). After a single application on human skin explants, MAST peel was found to be more effective than a commercial HQ peel in inhibiting melanin (histochemical imaging and gene expression). All participants completed the case study (N = 9) without any adverse events. After administration of the MAST peel by a dermatologist, the scoring and VISIA photography reported improvements in hyperpigmentation, texture and erythema, which could be linked to underlying pathophysiological changes in skin after peeling, visualized by non-invasive optical biopsy of face. Using reflectance confocal microscopy (VivaScope (R)) and multiphoton tomography (MPTflex (TM)), we observed reduction in melanin, increase in metabolic activity of keratinocytes, and no signs of inflammatory cells after peeling. Subsequent swabbing of the cheek skin found no microbiota dysbiosis resulting from the chemical peel. The strong efficacy with minimum downtime and no adverse events could be linked to the synergistic action of the ingredients in the novel HQ- and TCA-free professional peel technology.
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Keywords

4-percentAcneChemical peelsCombinationEfficacyHydroquinone-freeHyperpigmentationIn-vitroMelasmaMicrobiomeMolecular dockingMultiphoton tomographyPhotodamageReflectance confocal microscopSafetySkin

Quality index

Bibliometric impact. Analysis of the contribution and dissemination channel

The work has been published in the journal EXPERIMENTAL DERMATOLOGY due to its progression and the good impact it has achieved in recent years, according to the agency Scopus (SJR), it has become a reference in its field. In the year of publication of the work, 2024 there are still no calculated indicators, but in 2023, it was in position , thus managing to position itself as a Q1 (Primer Cuartil), in the category Dermatology. Notably, the journal is positioned above the 90th percentile.

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Impact and social visibility

From the perspective of influence or social adoption, and based on metrics associated with mentions and interactions provided by agencies specializing in calculating the so-called "Alternative or Social Metrics," we can highlight as of 2026-04-06:

  • The use of this contribution in bookmarks, code forks, additions to favorite lists for recurrent reading, as well as general views, indicates that someone is using the publication as a basis for their current work. This may be a notable indicator of future more formal and academic citations. This claim is supported by the result of the "Capture" indicator, which yields a total of: 53 (PlumX).

With a more dissemination-oriented intent and targeting more general audiences, we can observe other more global scores such as:

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    Leadership analysis of institutional authors

    This work has been carried out with international collaboration, specifically with researchers from: Germany; Sweden; United States of America.

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    Awards linked to the item

    RTL genomics for 16S rRNA sequencing. TenBio, Ltd UK for gene expression study using their TenSkin (TM) model. Jin Namkoong and Joanna Wu from Colgate-Palmolive Company to provide consultation on designing gene expression study.
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