June 9, 2019
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Runup variability due to time dependence and stochasticity in the beach profiles: two extreme cases of the Spanish coast

Publicated to: JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH. 70 1-6 - 2014-04-01 70(), DOI: 10.2112/SI70-001.1

Authors:

Díaz-Sánchez, R; López-Gutiérrez, JS; Lechuga, A; Negro, V
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Affiliations

CEDEX, Ctr Harbours & Coastal Studies - Author
Univ Politecn Madrid, Res Grp Marine Coastal & Port Environm & Other Se - Author

Abstract

Equations for extreme runup worked out from several experimental studies are compared. Infragraviatory oscillations dominate the swash in a dissipative state but not in intermediate - reflective states. Therefore two kinds of equation depending on either significant wave height, H-0, or the Iribarren number, xi(0), should be used. Through a sand bed physical model with a uniform sand bed slope, equations are proposed for both beach states, and results are compared with precedent field and physical model experiments. Once the equations are chosen, the time-longshore variability in a medium - long term time scale of the foreshore slope is evaluated in two extreme cases relating to the Spanish coast. The Salinas beach on the North coast (Bay of Biscay) displayed a permanent dissipative beach state with small variations in the beach foreshore slope both along the shore and in time, so foreshore slope deviations in a medium-long term period were irrelevant and extreme runup is predicted with the wave height worked out from the design return period. Peniscola beach on the East coast (Mediterranean sea) displayed an intermediate state. If only time variations are analysed, variations in determining extreme runup are irrelevant. In contrast, significant differences were found when the longshore variations were studied in this Mediterranean beach.
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Keywords

Beach processesExtreme runupNatural beachRunupSetupSwashSwash zoneWave runup

Quality index

Bibliometric impact. Analysis of the contribution and dissemination channel

The work has been published in the journal JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH due to its progression and the good impact it has achieved in recent years, according to the agency Scopus (SJR), it has become a reference in its field. In the year of publication of the work, 2014, it was in position , thus managing to position itself as a Q2 (Segundo Cuartil), in the category Water Science and Technology. Notably, the journal is positioned en el Cuartil Q4 for the agency WoS (JCR) in the category Geography, Physical.

Independientemente del impacto esperado determinado por el canal de difusión, es importante destacar el impacto real observado de la propia aportación.

Según las diferentes agencias de indexación, el número de citas acumuladas por esta publicación hasta la fecha 2026-04-27:

  • Google Scholar: 7
  • WoS: 8
  • Scopus: 7
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Impact and social visibility

It is essential to present evidence supporting full alignment with institutional principles and guidelines on Open Science and the Conservation and Dissemination of Intellectual Heritage. A clear example of this is:

  • Assignment of a Handle/URN as an identifier within the deposit in the Institutional Repository: https://oa.upm.es/35701/

As a result of the publication of the work in the institutional repository, statistical usage data has been obtained that reflects its impact. In terms of dissemination, we can state that, as of

  • Views: 405
  • Downloads: 4
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Leadership analysis of institutional authors

There is a significant leadership presence as some of the institution’s authors appear as the first or last signer, detailed as follows: Last Author (NEGRO VALDECANTOS, VICENTE).

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Awards linked to the item

The experiment has been funded by the Spanish General Directorate for Sustainability of the Coast and Sea. The financial support of researcher training in CEDEX (Spanish Ministry for Civil Works), and also the collaboration of the Polytechnic University of Madrid to allow the PhD Thesis in its Institution have enabled this research to be carried out.
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